I’m in the same boat. The only thing on this circuit is those three outlets and they are all dead. I only use one of those for anything and I’ve solved that problem with a long extension cord. But it’s only a temporary fix.
Make sure to reset the circuit breaker by shutting it off completely and then turning it back on. Sometimes it looks on when it’s been tripped.
So the electrician came by and in about 1 minute just said, “Clearly the problem is your GFCI outlet. We just need to replace it.” So he pops a new one in and everything is fine. Took him under 20 min total. He didn’t even need to turn off the breaker for the circuit.
He said the problem was caused by the heater in the other (non-GFCI) outlet.
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Space heaters were invented by out of work electricians
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need like a 30 amp breaker in the panel dedicated to outlets that use a space heater
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Finally in the other bathroom, hope to get the 4’x8’ waterproof wall panel cut to fit and liquid-nailed to the wall of the shower enclosure by later this afternoon
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I originally went with a thinner piece, about 1/16th" thick, but it proved difficult getting the ‘waves’ out of it iykwim.
Got some more substantial, 1/8th" stuff, and it worked like a charm.
Also had to taper the right side of the panel, because the tub isn’t level, and was causing there to be gaps where the panel meets the tub and perpendicular wall iykwim
So now I’ve got the hang of it. Booyay
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Better business bureau and Angie’s list warn against hiring this contractor
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the reflection is on the end of the handle
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Overalls, Holmes, you know me
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I recently had to have a plumber come out and do a job for me. Day #1 they fix the issue, I pay them, which includes a flat service fee and an hourly rate. They were here for 2:40 but charged a full 3 hours. I didn’t mind because they did a good job (or so I thought). Day #2 I discover more water that resulted from the work they did the day prior, call them, they come out and fix the problem completely. Took 1:15. They attempt to charge me another flat service fee and another 2 full hours worth of work.
I know I could have resolved this before engaging with them by clarifying how much they charged. Is it typical in the plumbing industry to charge for a full hour even if not a full hour’s worth of work was performed. Also, I would have thought because they were coming back to fix an issue from their work I wouldn’t be charged another flat service fee.
I understand they have a difficult job, time is money, but that seems hard for me to swallow. I pushed back on what they attempted to charge me and was talked to like I was a deadbeat for not paying what they wanted. AITA?
This is a tough call. What really theoretically matters is if the fee was reasonable, independent of how they calculate it. Having said that I don’t think you’re terribly put of line. Unclear billing practices is a bit of a red flag.
Thanks. I posted because I felt bad for the actual plumber here. He was very understanding and empathetic to what happened, cause his work did cause the extra issue. It was when I was talking with the owner on the phone about the bill that I was talked down to for even attempting to question the billing.
I just assumed it was a continuation of the same job, to fix what happened the day prior, which was directly caused by their work, so I didn’t expect another service call charge.
And then paying for work-time when no actual work was being done. I know in lots of other industries you only bill/charge for time you actually spend working. Didn’t realize this might not have been the case here.
Anyone have any experience with canless recessed lights. If I’m installing some, is there any reason I shouldn’t just go with those over cans? Looks way easier.
Slim LED type pot lights (can-less) are amazing and you need less of them than regular lights as they are brighter, so you save money there too. Have put them in my last 2 renos.
So I got an electrical issue. Power company was doing work on the lines on our street a while back, took our power out a few times, and after one of the times, everything came back except 3 or 4 plugs in my living room. None of those plugs have a GFCI, and none of the breakers had tripped. So, first hypothesis was a failed breaker. Previous owners didn’t do an especially good job labeling breakers, but we audited all of them and found two we couldn’t attribute anything to: one standard breaker that we replaced first, and then a GFCI breaker that we tried after the first replacement didn’t change anything. That didn’t fix them, either. Seems pretty unlikely that actual wiring was severed (home remodeled in 2008 so it’s not that old, also it hasn’t burned down in a fire started by failed wiring), so, like what the hell else could be wrong with this?
I have got no helpful advice, but I commend your do-it-yourself efforts. I would have tapped out way earlier and just called an electrician.
Look for a tripped GFCI anywhere else in the house (esp. bathroom, outside), what outlets are on what circuit doesn’t isn’t always sensible.
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About the only place a GFCI outlet could be is in the attic-ish space that’s above the living room (it’s kind of a disaster, and not really useful; I’d have a hard time believing there’s an outlet up there). The living room we think used to be a garage, and it’s the only part of the house that doesn’t have a second story above it. There’s what we call the utility nook that’s part of the space, too, but it only has two outlets, both of which are working. There’s a bathroom next to the space, too, but it only has one non-GFCI outlet that’s definitely on another circuit. The GFCI outlets in the kitchen are working. The two exterior walls have no outlets, and the 3rd wall is the garage, which has its own circuit and its only outlet is working.
Guess I’ll have to take another look at that attic space, and get a current checker.