Questions about construction stuff, repairs, remodeling go here or just show off whatever projects you’re working on.
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I’m going to build a tiny retaining wall - about 1’ high max. I’m planning on laying some bricks, but then I’m going to put some decorative ceramic tiles in the front of part of it.
Do I need to let the mortar of the bricks dry/cure for any time before I put tiles on? If so, like how long? I’m thinking maybe if the mortar shrinks it’d crack the tiles.
Assuming you’re setting the tile with some sort of portland cement-based thinset, no. It’s more or less the same thing as masonry mortar* and you’ll actually get a slightly better bond if you do it immediately after.
*Not close enough to use one for the other, but pretty much the same ingredients in different ratios
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You think that wall is going to keep the cockroache out? You need bigger!
I’m not sure if we’re using different terminology or if you have different products over there than what we have, but I’ve never seen a pre-mixed tile adhesive that’s rated for wet use. They’re generally frowned upon here and rarely used by professional tile setters.
Thinset isn’t a rapid-setting cement, it’s just standard tile mortar formulated for, well, thin setting. It’s available both with and without polymer additives, the latter becoming more common as it provides better performance with the newer waterproofing and uncoupling membranes which make the polymer additives unnecessary.
I believe I’ve seen tile mortar wet in a tub like that, but I have no problem mixing stuff with water and would get that probably just because it’s probably cheaper.
I’m really not at all worried about bonding.
Just about the tiles cracking and you guys disagree about that. Seems like if the thinset cures faster than the brick mortar I dunno – if the bricks move at all while they set – cracking?
It’s weird that seems to be a UK only product when the parent company Sika has stuff all over the US world.
The thinset and mortar should have about the same cure rate. They’re both portland cement based. If you’re worried about cracking (you shouldn’t be imo, especially not with a 12" wall), you can use a polymer modified thinset which has a bit more flex.
So I’ve had a small water leak near the peak of my roof, shows up during heavy rain. I have vaulted ceilings so no attic access which is making this issue more complicated than it should be.
I had a new ridge vent put on this spring because the gap that was cut for the vent by the previous owners was too wide which was causing a leak in a different spot. So the new vent stopped that leak but the new leak started a few months after the install and I’m assuming its coming in or around the vent. The roofer who did the vent thinks it’s happening because of the low slope (roof is 3/12 or maybe a little shallower than that) he wants to close up the vent and install box or turbine vents which seems like a terrible idea because I would need to a vent for each section. So I’d have like 10 fucking mushrooms lined up on the roof which seems bad.
I was up on the roof tonight looking at shit and noticed this little hole in the shingles, could something like that be the cause of this? It’s in the area where water is most likely getting in. I put some silicon sealant I had laying around in the hole, we’re supposed to get like 3 inches of rain over the next couple days so my fingers are crossed.
Ridge vents are pretty rare around here. I don’t know if they are prone to leaking or not.
That hole doesn’t look like it goes deep, but if it does it definitely could cause a small leak. I’ve only been involved in a few leaks, but one small one was caused by a loose nail that someone must have stepped on.
Bathroom type caulk won’t last long there. If it doesn’t leak during the coming rain you should get some type of roofing sealant in there. Better, get a little square of metal flashing and insert it between shingles.
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I guess I’m more concerned with drilling a bunch of large holes in the roof and then causing a leak somewhere else. This seems to have worked fine for years so I’m wary of making a big change like that.
I believe ridge vents are the best way to ventiIate vaulted ceilings and since I live in MN ice dams are a big issue with poorly insulated and ventilated roofs. I’ve got a different roofer coming out to look at it, maybe it’s just a shitty install job or a simple fix
So I know little to nothing about home maintenance but have tried to acquire some knowledge over the years. Plumbing remains a mystery though. I noticed a good amount of water on my basement floor. Upon further inspection it appears to be coming from the basement ceiling, which is directly below my kitchen sink area.
I checked it out under the kitchen sink and sure enough it’s pretty wet, not pooling though like it is in the basement. It definitely was not like this last night, so it appears to have happened very recently which is good, I think. I know water infiltration/damage/mold can be a bitch to fix.
I have a garbage disposal in the sink that occasionally backs up if extra food gets accidentally washed off into it but a flick of the switch on and the water drains without an issue. It hasn’t been cold enough here yet to be concerned about frozen pipes exploding but does this sound like the case of a bad/leaky garbage disposal or a larger issue? I’ve got a buddy who is a jack of all trades coming to take a look but thought I’d get some advice from our internet posters too!
It definitely sounds like a leak from the waste side of the plumbing. From the supply side it would be a lot worse.
Put a bowl under the disposal and towel under the whole area, let it get clogged by whatever is easily chopped up by the disposal and backed up and then take a look imo.
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Alrighty, cool thanks. I did put some towels down and dried to the best I could for now. Doesn’t appear to be ongoing leaking but we shall see when someone takes a look that knows what they’re looking at.
So that seems to be the issue. Maybe it’s been happening longer than I thought because based on what I’m seeing under the sink, there’s a ton more water in my basement than what seems to be the sole cause.
I also have literally no ambition to do this myself. Not to sound too douchey but I always said I went to so many years of school so I didn’t have to learn anything like this or anything related to fixing a car (besides changing a tire obv). So, I appreciate the feedback from those that know much more than me.
So my fantasy life has taken me towards building a tiny home on cheap land with no services. I have an irl friend who is into this idea as well - perhaps setting up a commune. Not really, but like a shared vacation/camping spot.
Thoughts on aircrete or foam concrete? Insulation is good. Resistance to rot, mold and infestation is a key point for a structure that might sit for long periods. Fire resistance - might be in an area prone to fire.
Thoughts on construction method
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Pour perimeter foundation - normal concrete
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Build a 2x4 frame with vertical members only at the corners and adjacent to windows and doors
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Pour aircrete panels something like 6-8" thick and 12-18" wide and the length that goes from 2x4 post to 2x4 post
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In pour of the panels either have holes for the 2x4 posts or notches and set panels horizontally on edge for the walls - also a notch in the form so the panels fit together like tongue and groove boards. (panels reinforced with steel mesh)
Wood posts would ensure that the building goes up square. Joining the posts with sill and top plates would keep the building from falling down and stuff. Absolute max size would be 400sf, but thinking of much smaller - like 150sf footprint. Pitched roof - like 14-16’ tall at the tall end with a loft.
concerns
- even with whatever coatings, concrete structures look kinda bad
- it’s really hard to make aircrete that doesn’t get a crumbly or something
- even for a small structure - ends up seeming like a crazy amount of concrete
another plus
- aircrete panels could be made at home in the city and brought to the site.
For the roof I’m thinking very thin wood or steel framing with maybe some spray foam and/or polystyrene and tongue and groove wood siding on the inside with corregated steel on top.
Comments from anyone - obviously - but also paging @zikzak
I think this is probably the best place to ask this. I am moving out of a rented house and into an apartment. Due to poker, I often have a significant amount of cash. I would like to install a safe, but there is no convenient place to drill holes and secure it somewhere. There is no closet in the bedroom. Everywhere is carpeted or tiled and drilling a hole would be noticed.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to put a safe somewhere? I would have to be able to carry all materials by myself. Anything involving welding is a no go. I’m not particularly handy in general. I’d prefer to spend under $200, including the safe.
If you can’t drill into something structural, there’s really no great way. A safe should have some mounting holes where you can put a bolt with the head inside the safe. You could mount the safe to something that makes it really hard to carry off like a couple long pieces of strut - but maybe something that’s even harder to cut.
Safety deposit box at the casino?
I’d suggest you keep the money on you and just carry a gun, but then you’re the one we’re all worried about.
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You don’t need a safe, God made buttholes for a reason.
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@microbet why foam concrete? Does it solve some specific problem for you or were you simply drawn to it because it’s different and cool and the hippy kids talk about it or whatever?
Like almost every other professional builder, yes I am extremely skeptical of all these alternative building methods that have been around for decades yet have completely failed to capture any significant segment of the market. And I say that as somebody who has worked hands-on with several of them. There are very good reasons why we keep on using light frame wood construction for most buildings instead of all the the other stuff. It’s because it’s faster, cheaper, and easier than anything else out there, and you’re going to be very hard pressed to come up with a building material that’s more ecologically responsible than a carbon sequestering crop.
If you’re especially worried about insects, rot and fire, you could do light gauge steel framing and metal panel siding/roofing instead. Goes up exactly the same as wood framing and doesn’t cost that much more. It has even been adopted into prescriptive building codes so you don’t need to guess about how to do it right or trust some dodgy website or uToob.
Why a perimeter concrete foundation instead of pier and beam?
Where are you planning to build that you’re so concerned with insulation?
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