The house is elevated and the other end is coming out somewhere under the patio in the direction of the yard but I haven’t been able to locate it (bc of shrubs and snow or I’m blind). I guess what I’m asking is what you think the best way to get debris out of here would be given this is the only point of access (for now).
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you can remove the gutter temporarily and snake it. if you are sure it’s safe you can use water pressure too, but if the drain just goes to the yard rather than sewer, it probably won’t work.
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why wouldn’t a snake work in that case?
snaking would work as long as you could break up the blockage. although ideally you would bring it back up (not always possible).
our plumber has this water balloon thing which makes a seal in the pipe and creates enough water pressure to push blockages out. that would not work because the blockage would just move a little further into the yard and just sit there.
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Yeah, if it’s debris you need a snake. But it could be frozen in which case there isn’t anything you can do except wait for spring.
There may not be a visible pipe exiting the patio at all, depending on how it’s built. That would work fine for years, until the bottom of the downspout gets clogged with leaves and crap. If that’s the case you’re kind of screwed because you can’t snake it. Your only hope would be if the clog is close enough to the surface that you can reach it with your hand after taking some of the downspout apart.
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i think in some cases there’s also a hose with a rotating blade on the end. water makes it essentially a drill. it may be good enough to deal with a frozen blockage in the pipe.
i realize it’s a cold spell in northeast but if the pipe is at least 12-18” in the ground i would be surprised it’s frozen solid. that takes weeks of freezing temperatures to accomplish
Can feel a very slight draft from this opening. Is it just painted over? Not convinced I need to do anything about it but what is the appropriate solution? I have some weatherseal but it’s kind of unsightly.
Caulk I would think.
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MIcrobet is correct. But make sure it’s a paintable caulk, not silicone like the bottom. And maybe watch a youtube first about how to tool caulk.
Jesus, I just looked real quick at what’s on youtube. Don’t do any of the things the first dozen videos seem to be suggesting. They all look like terrible advice from amateurs.
How can you screw up caulk? Squirt it in and run your finger down it, no? Wipe off the outside with a paper towel.
– amateur
Umm is caulking hard? I’ve used silicone caulk on the outside of my house but I imagine that has a much larger window for error. I can’t tell if micro’s is a joke or actually telling me what to do.
I’ll tell you after I see what zz says.
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Wet finger, and damp rag > paper towel, but yes that’s correct for water-based caulks. The results should look like the (non-cracked) side of that window, not the bottom.
Silicone is much harder to work with. Basically none of the gadgets or techniques people like to suggest work, at all. That’s why it typically ends up looking like the bottom of the window. When I correctly caulk inside corners in a tiled tub or shower surround with a color matched caulk and it’s supposed to look exactly like the grout, it takes me a couple hours.
Don’t use silicone. It’s the wrong caulk for most things.
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I was serious.
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Concrete slab seems like a no-brainer to me but I’m not an expert.
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I just saw the episode where Wilson told Tim a metaphor about manliness that Tim hilariously took the wrong way and then relayed wrongly to Jill later on.
Holy shit it was funny
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What’s the “pt” in “pt wood floor”?
Are you talking about a raised and vented wood floor framing or throwing plywood on the dirt? Treated 4x4 foundation or something?
Only advantage to that seems like being able to move the whole thing.
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