Eh, total lumber cost difference between current prices and 6 months ago would probably be less than $1,000 for a deck and porch. Steel is still more expensive, especially when you get into structural members.
I started with steel and learned wood later. I’ve trained a bunch of guys going in the other direction and they all hated steel with a fiery passion.
Work the inside (pictured) valve open and closed a few times? Seems like water must be leaking through it, so maybe there’s a speck of debris in there disrupting the seal? If that fails you may need to get your plumber back to fix/replace it.
Nope. You can keep squirting various types of goo all over the place if you want, but it won’t work.
What are those elbows? Female brass pex fittings? And isn’t pex that blue flexible tubing?
Wow. I’ve used it for years and years over here.
So the tubing replacement was ancillary to replacing the valve? It looks like a new valve; the old one had a brass-colored body and the new one is silver, right?
Correct. The valve had gone bad, and in order to replace the valve he needed to replace a section of the pipe and fittings to and from the valve
No it’s here and I see it when I’m in attics and under houses. I’ve just noticed the blue tubing.
Last time I ran plumbing was years ago. It probably existed even then, but I didn’t know about it and ran copper.
The old valve was in a different location too than where he located the new valve obviously
So I was right, kinda, in my response.
Yeah, that much is clear from the the photos. With that I guessed it was based on ease of installation/assembly more than any functional reasons. Although if there were functional reasons I’d be interested in hearing what they were.
California is a backwards place. They still hot mop showers out there.
No. No access at all seems bad. Like if you get a plumbing leak you’re supposed to rip up the floor?
Also, most jurisdictions have legal requirements that mobile homes must remain mobile, without permanent foundations.
That is…maybe not true…surprising. A long time ago I was an FHA appraiser and did appraisals on a lot of mobile/manufactured homes and the FHA requirement was a permanent foundation.
No access does seem crazy. To help keep it from freezing? Still crazy and then it’s not that cold where JT is.
I think there is an important distinction between “mobile” and “manufactured”. Like mobile homes are literally built on a trailer (thus trailer parks).
Yeah, it’s obviously going to depend on the zoning. There are trailer parks (no FHA mortgage) and “manufactured homes”. But that structure right there could be either. Built on a trailer or not, you could roll it on some land you own, affix it to a permanent foundation, and get a 30 year mortgage on the whole thing. I think.
But if JTs is on a cinderblock foundation, there probably is no trailer.
Try looking for a hatch in the floor of a closet?
I need to secure a room in my rent house from the outside. I’m leaning toward multiple hasp locks.
I just need enough obstacle to keep someone busy for 2 hours max. I will be installing security cameras so long enough for me to become aware and get home
Ideas welcome if anyone can help.
Any appliance gurus out there?
I have an older gas Frigadaire range/oven. The burners have worked fine, but the stove stopped properly pre-heating. It would make this “sucking air” or “blowtorch” sound, and would take a long time to reach 300 degrees–and then wouldn’t go higher.
Anyway, I had an appliance technician come out. He replaced the igniter which was dying, but the other problem remained. He suggested it was an issue with the gas regulator outside–or a failing fuel safety valve in the stove, which he said would be unlikely as they do not fail often.
Other gas-powered appliances run ok–water heater, stove burners, furnace …
So I had the gas company come out, and they said the regulators did not appear to be leaking and said it was likely the stove. I asked the appliace technician to order the necessary part.
The gas company then came out to re-fill the tank. It’s a large tank and it’s just me in the hoiuse. They typically fill to 80%, they said. Tank was at 60%.
Once filled back to 80%, the stove started working properly. Heats quickly, no more of the blowtorch noise. Appliance guy said via email:
if range is working fine after being filled sounds like you had low pressure in your tank so either pressure gauge is faulty on tank or regulator is faulty on the tank. Very possible though tank shows full it may be only being partially filled due to faulty gauge and you were low on propane.
Thoughts on what to do next?
The people who fill your tank know what the pressure of the tank is. Wouldn’t they know if the pressure gauge or regulator on the tank are faulty?
Also, what about having them fill to 90% and getting them back at 70%? Maybe that just works for the oven.