Well it’s taken 3 months but I’m finally happy with the first 3 paragraphs of the “meat” of my book - where the actual trip starts. Ultimately I think it was worth it as I had to answer a lot of basic questions about what I’m trying to actually say and what the tone is going to be. I even went back to Baja in the meantime - which was essential to clarifying some of this stuff.
Chapter 3 - The longest journey begins with the first beer.
Run from what’s comfortable. Forget safety.
Live where you fear to live. Destroy your reputation. Be notorious.
I have tried prudent planning long enough.
From now on I’ll be mad.
― RumiI first “discovered” the Baja peninsula on our giant wall map in Mrs Howe’s 3rd grade classroom. I daydreamed, why does the Gulf of California not even touch California? That’s weird. What’s the water like in the gulf? Is it brown and muddy or blue like the ocean? Wait - that long bony finger of land is also called California - Baja California. What the heck is that thing? Do people even live there? If so it must be really weird living on such a long skinny piece of land with water on both sides. If you live at the bottom does it feel like you’re on an island?
Yet somehow despite exploring the US and Canadian West as a hobby for the last 20 years, I had failed to learn the answers to most of those questions. To my great shame, in all that time I’d never made it further south than Ensenada. There, barely 50 miles down the 800-mile long peninsula, was to begin my great unknown, the first leg of my trip. It was finally time to take the excellent Baja Adventure Book off the shelf from which it silently mocked me for 17 years.
I would ultimately discover a rugged landscape where nature is still winning; where water and arable land are in extremely short supply, yet breathtaking beauty is as abundant as oxygen. I glimpsed how a place so hostile to basic human needs could still inspire a mysterious ancient people to produce some of the world’s most impressive cave-paintings. Through a series of what I’ve coined “Baja moments”, I came to feel a kinship with the artists, writers, adventurers and dreamers who have been drawn to Baja for centuries, if not millennia. Like writers before me, I will make a valiant albeit flailing attempt to bring life to these mystical, numinous moments–which by definition cannot adequately be expressed in words–that speak to something inside me I will never fully comprehend.
But before we can get to all that existential stuff, I had plans to meet up with my buddy Gramps in Tijuana for a few beers.
It still needs a lot of tweaks but at least I don’t feel like ripping it up and starting over like I constantly did for months.
Anyway I figure this can’t be any more onerous than the gym log threads - so hopefully you will indulge me pasting stuff here every now and then. I hope it will be motivating.