found a box of old untabbed hario 02 filters and wow, I sort of forgot how big the difference is between these and the new tabbed ones.
are the sibarist filters THAT good? they’re expensive as shit, $40 for 100 seems insane. They can’t possibly be that good.
Is there anywhere left to get untabbed harios?
Are you wearing a brown corduroy jacket??
hell yeah
Weber Workshop now selling a salt and pepper set for $600
Found a guy on Amazon selling untabbed hario 02 filters, he only had two left so I got them, got this shit delivered today:
I figured there was a better than even chance I would get switcheroo’d like this, hopefully Amazon makes him eat shit on return fees
one hundred and eighty five dollars? gtfo these mofos think they’re weber???
you guys ever try adding one or two drops of water to the beans before you grind? I think the idea is it reduces the static electricity which reduces the clumping which increases the extraction
for the last week I’ve been adding one drop and then giving the beans a quick stir before putting them in the grinder, and it’s too soon to say that it’s more than placebo effect but idk all the cups have been solid and as a bonus there’s less mess in the catch cup
will update in two months when my coffee starts tasting like rust
yes. it seems to work pretty well to reduce static, I haven’t really noticed any impact on flavor (but I haven’t done anything approaching a real comparison to test that). I do it sometimes, it just depends on the bean and I guess whatever atmospheric conditions but in general I don’t have a huge problem with static (I think the grinder and the catch bin material really matter here but again I haven’t done any real testing).
I have this hario carafe thing:
it comes with a plastic V60 cone that fits inside the upper cone, and it holds about 500-700 ml below. I would like to use this with my (glass) v60 Switch:
but the rubber “ring” part of the switch is just a little bit too small to sit on top of the carafe’s rim. and if you notice, there’s a piece of the rubber part that descends down (this allows you to set the switch down on the counter without it falling over, etc) and this part is a lot wider than most v60 cones. So I need some sort of disc that is both bigger than the rim’s diameter and has a hole in it big enough to allow the switch’s descender thingy through.
there are a lot of things like this:
but they’re meant to hold a normal v60 glass cone, so the hole is way too small. I guess I’m going to have to find a woodworker who ACTUALLY makes these (I am pretty sure 99% of these “handmade” items on etsy are just aliexpress imports) and just send him the dimensions I want
and wow, etsy is absolutely full of shit that is A) NOT “handmade” despite being labeled that B) extremely “aesthetic” but objectively terrible for actually making coffee. normally I am super pro-“let people enjoy things” but this shit should be illegal
My last batch of beans would have so much static after grinding that it must’ve left at least a gram of dust in my grinder that I had to brush out after every grind. I never heard or thought to put a couple drops of water into the beans before grinding. I’ll have to try this next time I purchase those beans. Thanks
are the grinds themselves sticking or is it just the chaff? I usually only have the chaff sticking unless I grind really fine (like 5 or lower on my Vario+)
I’m honestly not sure what chaff is. It was just like dust from grinding that was sticking to the grinder and it was so much, I’d have to brush it out. I always have a little bit of residue left behind, but this particular bean left a lot. The beans I’m using now are not causing any problem
I probably do have it set to too fine of a grind. There are so many variables with a pour over. I’m going on two years now, and I STILL feel like I don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to grind size, water ratio, temperature, bloom time, whether to stir or not, and whether to do a single or multiple pours
All I know is that what I get beats the hell out of any automatic coffee maker I ever had lol
some beans will have a “skin” still on them, especially in between the little crack on the flat side (I have no idea what the proper terminology is here), it’s very thin and much lighter brown than the bean itself. This chaff will stick to the side of my grind catch bin, I gently blow on the grinds and the chaff will all fly out (you would have to blow much harder to get the grinds to fly out).
also the amount of static will vary pretty wildly between different types of equipment and different plastics will be more or less susceptible to it.
the water spray does tend to work. a lot of people are using little squirt bottles but just wetting the handle of a normal teaspoon and then using that to stir the beans around seems to work fine
I’m certain there’s a LM post that mentioned it years ago, he was ahead of the game. But there were also some viral news articles published recently reporting on a guy who had figured out the science behind why the water drops are effective, so it’s got some renewed attention.
here’s an example of beans with a lot of chaff. This is mostly a light roast thing I think, the more you roast the more this stuff gets … burned off? idk, but you can see it in the crannies.
Can anyone tell me what is wrong when my first 60g of water is only enough to barely soak 20g of grounds in my Hario V60?
Every pour over video I’ve ever watched, the first 60g of water is enough to swirl and swish around. Sometimes they do it with just 40g of water. With me, I’m lucky if I get all the grounds wet. Am I grinding too fine?
Yes the Ross Droplet Technique (RDT) been doing it every day for years.
Might be grind but some coffees take on more water than others before they saturate. My favorite coffees are almost always the ones that behave like rock fragments as opposed to top soil that turns into mud when you add water.
