(though in truth that makes perfect sense and now I’m off to test bottled water 
LMM)
(it turned out my local SF tap water was already v v low wrt CaCO3 and TDS etc [lower than SCA targets] so my brita isn’t helping beyond just reducing chlorine/contaminants, sigh)
Cliffs of cliffs: Buy Crystal Geyser Alpine Spring Water for $1.08/gallon and try brewing with that. If you’re using tap water, it’s variability could be the source of your V60 Yahtzee! moments.
A few observations on these coffees I have on hand: the best cups by far were the first ones from each bag and I’m not exactly sure why. One possibility is that the beans were still changing significantly due to only being a couple days off roast. I’ve played with water blends, brew temperatures, and grind size but keep missing. Some were pretty good but no Yahtzees.
One problem with LRSO coffee is that it can be difficult / deceiving to figure out where you need to go based on taste. My conjecture has been that a one-dimensional construct of extraction doesn’t necessarily make sense for these coffees given that they can taste under- and overextracted simultaneously. The taste test also has limited value because I’m not gonna brew a half dozen V60s back to back in one day. I usually do one brew and one adjustment (if necessary) unless the result is truly undrinkable. You can easily run out of coffee while still attempting to dial it in.
So the limiting factor to really solving coffee at this level is measurement, but accurately measuring the parameters that can aid orientation with a meaningful level of precision requires equipment that’s fairly expensive. Here’s a list with approximate prices:
Water (KH): Colorimeter ($50)
Water (GH): Aquarium titration kit ($10)
Grind size: Set of sieves (at least #20 and #40 mesh) ($50+)
Extraction yield: Coffee refractometer ($350+)*
Misc: Pipettes, reactants, etc. ($50+)
These are best-case-scenario prices that come out to >$500 but you could easily spend double. Also, some of these items are fairly specialized and can be a little tricky to shop for.
*A SLAPP-happy patent troll has cornered the market in the U.S. and charges double or triple what comparable units cost overseas.
My advice to most people is never touch a V60. It’s basically the coffee equivalent of blackjack: you can probably learn how to beat it, but how much time, money, and losing are you willing to withstand? Buy a good drip machine and grinder if you’re into specialty coffees that are delicate; use an immersion / press device if you’re not.
Ethiopian definitely seems like the most distinctive genre of coffee for me, even as someone who isn’t knowledgeable about coffee, the acidity and floral components really stand out.
this
it’s fucking infuriating but I can’t stop now
well I had a really good month commission-wise but junior totaled the “new” civic I bought him and I took a $3000 bath on that fucking debacle so … still no new grinder. :|
Brutal. I’m probably gonna keep my spare grinder but if you’re looking to take another bath on a decade-old Civic I can hook you up there.
Can you tell a difference in how those untabbed papers let water pass?
if you mean just the timing, absolutely, they are much, much faster. And more importantly, the difference in flow at the beginning and the end is much smaller than with the tabbed filters (my pours with the tabbed filters sometimes took for EVER because by the time I get to the last 50ml the paper is essentially clogged). With the untabbed, the flow starts faster and the magnitude of decrease is smaller (though it does noticably slow during the pour).
More importantly, the untabbed filters feel more consistent (too early to be sure about this, I’m still only on the first package), which is really he important part, I’ve already got enough variables to keep track of.
If nothing else they should allow you to either grind finer or hit super fast drawdowns. Quick observation: brewing with water that has an alkalinity of 40-50 seems to be the “trick” to getting the rounded / balanced acidity profile and avoiding the tart / sour peaks (aside from having a grinder that can produce unimodal particle distribution). Would really advise trying that if you are still getting those cups that seem both over and underextracted. I picked up some of this CrYsTaL GeYsEr magic water this morning and will let you all know how close it comes to water that I know is 40 ppm alkalinity.
Regarding drip machines, there are quite a few factors / features that you’ll have to consider which may not be totally obvious ahead of time. The machines on the SCA list vary quite widely in this regard which would require more research than you probably have time for. Since I owned one of these machines I’ll give my thoughts on a few of these aspects.
(1) Glass vs Thermal Carafe
I had the OXO 12-cup (discontinued) with thermal carafe. I’ve always felt like thermal carafes affect the flavor and prefer non-insulated glass or ceramic that breathes off volatile compounds and cools naturally. I’ve never done a blind test but I never find myself reaching for these insulated metal containers including travel mugs. It probably comes down to heat retention requirements: if you find yourself reheating coffee often then you may want the thermal carafe. Thermal carafes seem to be pricier and a little tougher to clean.
(2) Min / Max Capacity
The main reason I didn’t use the OXO much is because the minimum brew requirement is considerably more coffee than I drink. Shouldn’t be a problem for two people, but if you want an option for single dosing then you should consider this.
(3) Custom Brew Parameters
Some of the machines (e.g., Breville Precision, Behmor Brazen) allow you to customize brew parameters like temperature, bloom time, and flow rate. Obviously more control at the expense of simplicity. I could see a case for either.
(4) Bells & Whistles
Some machines have auto start timers and such. Others are pretty bare bones.
(5) Reliability / Warranty
Several SCA brewers have been around for awhile with no major design changes and have reputations for tank builds with good warranties. I’m specifically talking about the Technivorm Moccamasters which are durable and carry 5-year warranties. They tend to have the least amount of bells, whistles, and brew control. Bonavita has been around for a while also.
Final note: Some good machines are not on the current SCA list. For example, many people (including reputable places like Sweet Maria’s) seem to like the Behmor Brazen Plus 3.0 which doesn’t currently appear on the SCA website. Not sure why because the spec sheet says SCA certified. You will also not find commercial brewers on the list.
Final final note: If money is no object and you just want to make me extremely jealous, then get this:
Price ranges:
Bonavita 8-cup: $75-$150
Behmor Brazen Plus 3.0: $179
Breville Precision: $300
Technivorm Moccamaster: $300-$375
Curtis CGC Gold Cup: $1250
Thanks for all the time you’ve put into this.
There is very little time I put into that aside from just typing it out. Also, don’t really get the Curtis unless you can run 20 amp appliances at home and are willing to put in service calls.
I have acquired the Crystal Geyser Alpine magic water. My taste impression after several brews with several different coffees is that the alkalinity is too low. Can’t confirm until I buy a colorimeter which I plan to do soon. I’ve also thrown in the towel and decided to buy a refractometer. Probably gonna end up on a DEA watch list.
first try of the gourmesso pods is not a favorable one. I don’t think they even fit the machine well enough they were so under extracted
Weird. Are there slightly different models of machines or is it all the same?
there are a lot of machines, mine is among the cheapest because i did not buy any apes. but i just tried one capsule. either way it appears the intendent target is people who don’t know shit about coffee (like me) as their “starters kit” has hazelnut coffee, vanilla coffee and chocolate coffee, all of which are surely staples of specialty brewers.
it’s still like 40% the price of nespresso so hopefully some will be good.
